Tuesday, July 6, 2010
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Monday, July 5, 2010
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik is in Croatia on the other side of the Adriatic Sea and a little further south on the Dalmatian Coast. As the ship approached at 6 am, I was amazed by the steep mountains, many islands and charming coastal settlements. Again, never having been to Dubrovnik, I was somewhat unprepared for what to expect. Well it was wonderful.
We docked in “new” Dubrovnik but the jewel was the walled city of old Dubrovnik which we reached by shuttle bus in 30 minutes. Dubrovnik and Venice used to be trade competitors which is why the original city of Dubrovnik is encompassed by a city wall. The old moat is now a roadway around the city! Once again, as in Athens, Santorini and Venice, the weather was hot – high 30s – and the crowds were thick. One consequence of the crowds has been a spate of pick pocketing reported by passengers. Two of the people I have met were robbed in Dubrovnik. One, a man, lost his wallet containing his passport, credit cards and cash. A lady lost her cash. Apparently it is mainly Romanian immigrant families, working as teams to bump, distract and rob with deft fingers. Neither realised they’d been robbed until sometime after the event.
Old Dubrovnik is a compact city with one main street leading to the town square and cathedral with numerous very narrow side streets filled with shops and sidewalk café/bars. I thought is was magical.
Dubrovnik busker
Outdoor restaurants
Lunch venue
After the city we boarded the bus and went inland to a vineyard for wine tasting and then onto lunch at a beautiful outdoor restaurant adjacent to water mills and babbling brooks.
After lunch we went on to a gorgeous seaside resort – Cavtat – where Edward VII and Wallace Simpson honeymooned and where last week Goldie Hawn and famous hubbie were seen eating after coming in on one of the luxurious yachts there.
Once again, I could have stayed longer and it has gone into my “must see again” filing cabinet!
We are now at sea again heading for Civitavecchia – the port nearest Rome. At lunchtime we rounded the toe of Italy with Calabria to starboard and Sicily to port in the Messina Straits – less than 2 miles across at the narrowest point.
On approach
We docked in “new” Dubrovnik but the jewel was the walled city of old Dubrovnik which we reached by shuttle bus in 30 minutes. Dubrovnik and Venice used to be trade competitors which is why the original city of Dubrovnik is encompassed by a city wall. The old moat is now a roadway around the city! Once again, as in Athens, Santorini and Venice, the weather was hot – high 30s – and the crowds were thick. One consequence of the crowds has been a spate of pick pocketing reported by passengers. Two of the people I have met were robbed in Dubrovnik. One, a man, lost his wallet containing his passport, credit cards and cash. A lady lost her cash. Apparently it is mainly Romanian immigrant families, working as teams to bump, distract and rob with deft fingers. Neither realised they’d been robbed until sometime after the event.
Old Dubrovnik is a compact city with one main street leading to the town square and cathedral with numerous very narrow side streets filled with shops and sidewalk café/bars. I thought is was magical.
City walls
Old city entry gate
Main street
a crowded avenue
Dubrovnik busker
Outdoor restaurants
Musical beer garden
Leaving Dubrovnik for lunch
Lunch venue
After lunch we went on to a gorgeous seaside resort – Cavtat – where Edward VII and Wallace Simpson honeymooned and where last week Goldie Hawn and famous hubbie were seen eating after coming in on one of the luxurious yachts there.
Cavtat seaside resort
Cavtat sidewalk
Some shipmates
I’ve got to admit it’s getting better ...
So, leaving Santorini and Greece behind, we headed west out of the Cyclades Islands and into the Adriatic Sea for our next two stops – Venice and Dubrovnik. The Adriatic Sea is a north west arm of the Mediterranean with Italy to the west and Albania and Croatia to the east.
Venice
I hadn’t appreciated that the ship would sail straight through the middle of the city of Venice passing only metres to the south of St Mark’s Square! It was quite an experience and gave a view of Venice not available on land at ground level, It was my first visit to Venice and hadn’t really given much thought to it except the comments from others that it was like an open sewer!
I was overwhelmed by the experience - a total sensory blitz. Some stats – Venice comprises 118 islands separated by 150 canals connected by 400 bridges! Puts the Gold Coast and our other canal developments in the shade! I abandoned my two pre-booked excursions (the ship stayed in Venice overnight) and took to the streets on my own.
From St Marks Square I meandered around the city streets and canal ways for over 5 hours. Throngs of people at the main venues, but quiet beautiful side streets and laneways with fewer people. The canals are beautiful and the little bridges with their raised tops to allow gondolas under them are perfect. I was struck by the cacophony of voices and their many languages. The Italians seem to always be on stage as the men strut round like cocks of the walk and their women preen themselves and chatter incessantly. In St Mark’s Square I felt I was in the centre of the earth. Apart from the crowds (of which I was a part) the. main downside of and for Europeans is that most of them smoke – a fact glaringly obvious to Australians who have mainly kicked the habit.
Of course prices for anything are sky high – wine $15 per glass, beer about the same – but most of that is for the location, not the product.
I went ashore at 3pm and arrived back on board at 9 pm after a delicious fish dinner on the waterfront adjacent to where our shuttle boat service operated.
As well as the smoking – two other things struck me in my time ashore. First, despite the league of nations, including many Americans in Venice, Australian women were by far the largest women I saw. This is a first for me as American women have normally taken this title. Secondly – OK maybe I’m suffering cultural cringe or my inner European person is emerging – the Australians ashore, men and women, were by far the loudest and sloppily attired tourists of all. In addition to which, overhearing conversations, I believe we have also taken the title from the English of being the world’s greatest whingers.
A final observation – once again, even though I was surrounded by marauding hordes of tourists I was a loner amongst them. However on a happier note – in Venice I could have happily stayed there and not returned to the ship =- I was under its magic spell. A few photos to give you a taste.
Oh yes, I forgot to say – our engine problems have been fixed and we are now cruising at 20 knots when it suits the itinerary.
Venice
I hadn’t appreciated that the ship would sail straight through the middle of the city of Venice passing only metres to the south of St Mark’s Square! It was quite an experience and gave a view of Venice not available on land at ground level, It was my first visit to Venice and hadn’t really given much thought to it except the comments from others that it was like an open sewer!
I was overwhelmed by the experience - a total sensory blitz. Some stats – Venice comprises 118 islands separated by 150 canals connected by 400 bridges! Puts the Gold Coast and our other canal developments in the shade! I abandoned my two pre-booked excursions (the ship stayed in Venice overnight) and took to the streets on my own.
From St Marks Square I meandered around the city streets and canal ways for over 5 hours. Throngs of people at the main venues, but quiet beautiful side streets and laneways with fewer people. The canals are beautiful and the little bridges with their raised tops to allow gondolas under them are perfect. I was struck by the cacophony of voices and their many languages. The Italians seem to always be on stage as the men strut round like cocks of the walk and their women preen themselves and chatter incessantly. In St Mark’s Square I felt I was in the centre of the earth. Apart from the crowds (of which I was a part) the. main downside of and for Europeans is that most of them smoke – a fact glaringly obvious to Australians who have mainly kicked the habit.
Of course prices for anything are sky high – wine $15 per glass, beer about the same – but most of that is for the location, not the product.
I went ashore at 3pm and arrived back on board at 9 pm after a delicious fish dinner on the waterfront adjacent to where our shuttle boat service operated.
As well as the smoking – two other things struck me in my time ashore. First, despite the league of nations, including many Americans in Venice, Australian women were by far the largest women I saw. This is a first for me as American women have normally taken this title. Secondly – OK maybe I’m suffering cultural cringe or my inner European person is emerging – the Australians ashore, men and women, were by far the loudest and sloppily attired tourists of all. In addition to which, overhearing conversations, I believe we have also taken the title from the English of being the world’s greatest whingers.
A final observation – once again, even though I was surrounded by marauding hordes of tourists I was a loner amongst them. However on a happier note – in Venice I could have happily stayed there and not returned to the ship =- I was under its magic spell. A few photos to give you a taste.
St Mark's Sq from the ship
Canal from ship
ditto
The Gondoliers
Gondolier grid-lock
The Rialto bridge
steps down from the Rialto bridge
Beautiful restaurant balcony overlooking canal
My dinner restaurant
Iced packed seafood restaurant window display
Shop with customer waiting outside
Oh yes, I forgot to say – our engine problems have been fixed and we are now cruising at 20 knots when it suits the itinerary.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Greece and Turkey - part two
Suddenly, three quarters through the voyage, time has sped up as has the tempo of shore visits. In the last five days we have visited Athens, Ephesus (Kusadasi), Istanbul, Anzac Cove and Santorini. We now have a day at sea and arrive in Venice tomorrow afternoon.
After some disappointing stops in Asia, since entering the Mediterranean, all the visits have been more than I had anticipated.
I have already blogged about Athens and Ephesus so today’s contribution covers the last 3 days.
Istanbul
Approaching Istanbul from the sea is a magical experience as we sailed up the Bosporus with the city skyline of multiple mosques, minarets and large skyscrapers emerging out of the mist. My first impressions were confirmed during the day ashore. It is a large, secular, vibrant, wealthy city with many places to visit.
As usual however, because of its attractions, even on a Sunday, it was besieged by marauding hordes of tourists as well as locals having a day out in the sun. It has many historical attractions. The Blue Mosque with its six minarets being the most famous, closely rivalled by St Sophia’s Basilica – later modified as a mosque but now a museum. The Topkapi Palace is amazing as is the area where the Roman Hippodrome was – seating 100000 people!
The downside for me was that, as it was Sunday, the Grand Bazaar – biggest in the world – was closed. Good enough reason to return I think.
Anzac Cove
That night we sailed for Anzac Cove and the Dardanelles. We arrived there at 0600 the next day and drifted around Anzac Cove for 7 hours during which 2 memorial services were held with full pomp and ceremony. Strangely, I was not affected as I had always thought I would, being at this famous place in Australian history. I also found it a bit of a turn off to here “God Save the Queen” being sung and preyers for the Queen and members of the royal family. Silly ol’ me!
Santorini
And then yesterday morning we entered the crater of the volcano which is Santorini. The ship anchored in the flooded crater and the slopes of the crater walls rose steeply to the towns and villages on top which looked like snow o r bird poo depending on your frame of mind. What an amazing place – completely exceeded what I had always hoped it would be. We left the ship by tender ferries, caught a bus at the foot of the cliffs and zigzagged our way to the top where the reverse views back to the ship were equally spectacular.
The bus took us to the northern tip of the main island to the old village called Oia. Along with four other cruise ship contents we looked through the narrow cobbled streets. Despite the crowds (it’s worse in August we were told) it is a very special place. Then via a Byzantine church to a beautiful Greek buffet lunch followed by a wine tasting. Quite a busy morning.
Early afternoon we went on the main township of Fira which a larger version of Oia with an incredible number of beautiful jewellery shops as well as the usual tourist junk. t. o had great cotton, linen and silk clothing shops selling whits outfits for men and omen.
At the top end of Fira is the cable car which runs down the mountain back to the old port where our tenders took us back to the ship. The queue for the cable car was so great it formed a loop which at one stage I thought was an endless loop. Lots of attempts to push in, complaints, heat made it a frustrating way to end the visit.
Many were forces to go down the steps zigzagging forever, with donkeys galloping up the steps chased by their owners and the consequent donkey droppings everywhere!
All in all an excellent day
After some disappointing stops in Asia, since entering the Mediterranean, all the visits have been more than I had anticipated.
I have already blogged about Athens and Ephesus so today’s contribution covers the last 3 days.
Istanbul
Approaching Istanbul from the sea is a magical experience as we sailed up the Bosporus with the city skyline of multiple mosques, minarets and large skyscrapers emerging out of the mist. My first impressions were confirmed during the day ashore. It is a large, secular, vibrant, wealthy city with many places to visit.
As usual however, because of its attractions, even on a Sunday, it was besieged by marauding hordes of tourists as well as locals having a day out in the sun. It has many historical attractions. The Blue Mosque with its six minarets being the most famous, closely rivalled by St Sophia’s Basilica – later modified as a mosque but now a museum. The Topkapi Palace is amazing as is the area where the Roman Hippodrome was – seating 100000 people!
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque dome - interior
St Sophie's Basilica
3000 year old obelisk at Roman Hippodrome
The downside for me was that, as it was Sunday, the Grand Bazaar – biggest in the world – was closed. Good enough reason to return I think.
Anzac Cove
That night we sailed for Anzac Cove and the Dardanelles. We arrived there at 0600 the next day and drifted around Anzac Cove for 7 hours during which 2 memorial services were held with full pomp and ceremony. Strangely, I was not affected as I had always thought I would, being at this famous place in Australian history. I also found it a bit of a turn off to here “God Save the Queen” being sung and preyers for the Queen and members of the royal family. Silly ol’ me!
Santorini
And then yesterday morning we entered the crater of the volcano which is Santorini. The ship anchored in the flooded crater and the slopes of the crater walls rose steeply to the towns and villages on top which looked like snow o r bird poo depending on your frame of mind. What an amazing place – completely exceeded what I had always hoped it would be. We left the ship by tender ferries, caught a bus at the foot of the cliffs and zigzagged our way to the top where the reverse views back to the ship were equally spectacular.
The bus took us to the northern tip of the main island to the old village called Oia. Along with four other cruise ship contents we looked through the narrow cobbled streets. Despite the crowds (it’s worse in August we were told) it is a very special place. Then via a Byzantine church to a beautiful Greek buffet lunch followed by a wine tasting. Quite a busy morning.
Approach to Santorini
A quiet Santorini laneway
Defying Gravity
Marina below
Anyone for a dip?
Four bells
Santorini restaurant
Peephole to another world
Mini market was closed
At the top end of Fira is the cable car which runs down the mountain back to the old port where our tenders took us back to the ship. The queue for the cable car was so great it formed a loop which at one stage I thought was an endless loop. Lots of attempts to push in, complaints, heat made it a frustrating way to end the visit.
Many were forces to go down the steps zigzagging forever, with donkeys galloping up the steps chased by their owners and the consequent donkey droppings everywhere!
All in all an excellent day
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Out of Africa (and Asia)
12 hours out of Port Said, we had entered a new climate – noticeably cooler and without the haze of Asia and Africa. As well as the weather changing, I also feel a change within myself as we enter Europe – in an odd way I feel as if I’m coming home.
Unfortunately political events down under have alienated me from most other passengers who seem to be rusted-on conservatives. Most seem to be crowing over Rudd’s demise as well as whingeing over Gillard’s accession. I felt impelled to tell one group – gloating loudly – to keep their bigoted, greedy, racist views to themselves to which they responded – “so you’d rather have Stalin?” I responded that they would be looking for Stalin too after a year of Tony Abbott.
I am now in a personal fix – whether to stick up for my principles, or subside into the ooze of greed and bigotry or just give up. Suddenly all my options appear to be on the table.
Athens – the white trash of Europe?
Yesterday I went ashore in Athens which we were visiting in advance of our normal schedule due to a national strike planned for the original date. I was very pleasantly surprised. I’d been joking around the ship
that I might buy Athens seeing as it is going so cheep! Quite the contrary – bustling, clean, vibrant and interesting compared with our stops in Asia and Port Said. The Acropolis was brilliant, except I lost my group and ended up wandering around for half an hour after they left – in the end getting onto one of the other tour buses. Athens itself was interesting and the Plaka - a traditional shopping area – very interesting with good outdoor eating too – a place to revisit.
Then overnight we sailed to the Turkish port of Kusadasi for our tour of Ephesus. The port was delightful – many outdoor cafes around the waterfront – modern clean and attractive – another place to spend more time in.
Ephesus itself was overwhelming. A 1 kilometre walk through the ruins of this huge city (of 500,000 in its heyday) – Rome’s eastern capital. It was the home of St Paul, St John and is said to be the resting place of the Virgin Mary. Problem with these places is that one could spend weeks there, whereas we had 2 hours but at least long enough to feel the place in a very deep way – even though 3000 others are there with you!
Unfortunately political events down under have alienated me from most other passengers who seem to be rusted-on conservatives. Most seem to be crowing over Rudd’s demise as well as whingeing over Gillard’s accession. I felt impelled to tell one group – gloating loudly – to keep their bigoted, greedy, racist views to themselves to which they responded – “so you’d rather have Stalin?” I responded that they would be looking for Stalin too after a year of Tony Abbott.
I am now in a personal fix – whether to stick up for my principles, or subside into the ooze of greed and bigotry or just give up. Suddenly all my options appear to be on the table.
Athens – the white trash of Europe?
Yesterday I went ashore in Athens which we were visiting in advance of our normal schedule due to a national strike planned for the original date. I was very pleasantly surprised. I’d been joking around the ship
that I might buy Athens seeing as it is going so cheep! Quite the contrary – bustling, clean, vibrant and interesting compared with our stops in Asia and Port Said. The Acropolis was brilliant, except I lost my group and ended up wandering around for half an hour after they left – in the end getting onto one of the other tour buses. Athens itself was interesting and the Plaka - a traditional shopping area – very interesting with good outdoor eating too – a place to revisit.
approach to Acropolis
The Acropolis
ancient and modern Greeks
Athens from the Acropolis
more Athens
Museum of Antiquities
Then overnight we sailed to the Turkish port of Kusadasi for our tour of Ephesus. The port was delightful – many outdoor cafes around the waterfront – modern clean and attractive – another place to spend more time in.
Ephesus itself was overwhelming. A 1 kilometre walk through the ruins of this huge city (of 500,000 in its heyday) – Rome’s eastern capital. It was the home of St Paul, St John and is said to be the resting place of the Virgin Mary. Problem with these places is that one could spend weeks there, whereas we had 2 hours but at least long enough to feel the place in a very deep way – even though 3000 others are there with you!
approach to Ephesus
Ephesus doorway
Main street - Ephesus
amazing 25000 seat stadium
the donor was a big black labrador
Now we are headed for Istanbul, threading between the Turkish and Greek Islands. I would love to come back here again.
I have taken heaps of photos – far too many for the blog – so just a few to provide a taste of the visits.
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